How to Color Natural Hair with Henna and Indigo – A Comprehensive Guide

Henna and indigo are some of the best and safest ways to color natural hair without causing any damage.

Natural hair is resilient and versatile. You can do many creative things with natural hair.

Unfortunately, coloring natural hair with chemical dyes is not one of those creative things.

Irrespective of what the bottle says or promises, coloring natural hair with chemical dyes will eventually lead to dryness, split ends, and breakage.

The chemicals are just too harsh for the hair. They work by raising the pH level of hair and breaking down the structural bond of hair.

How to colour natural hair with henna and indigo, a comprehensive guide

How to Dye Natural Hair at Home

Despite reading all that, you still want to cover your grey hair and/or switch up your hair color sometimes.

What’s the best way to achieve this without damaging your hair then? Incorporate henna and indigo into your regimen. 

I have been using this method for dyeing my hair since I went natural and I’m yet to regret it.

It’s gentle, effective, and lasts for up to 12 weeks at a time, longer if I’m wearing protective styles in-between.

This is a very detailed guide on how to color natural hair with henna and indigo.

Grab some coffee before you start reading, and maybe take some notes in your hair journal & planner

10 Benefits of Coloring Natural Hair with Henna and Indigo

1. Henna and Indigo is Natural

No chemicals is one of the best benefits of dying natural hair with henna and indigo.

No synthetic dyes and no pre-mixed dyes. All-natural. Best henna and indigo recommendations are below.

2. Henna and Indigo is Safe and Gentle

Henna and indigo is a safe, gentle, and natural way to color natural hair at home without damaging your hair.

3. Henna and Indigo Conditions Hair

Henna and indigo help condition the curls and enhance the benefits of deep conditioning over time.

4. Damaged Hair Recovery

If you have had a previous disaster with chemical hair dyes, henna and indigo can help your hair recover faster.

5. Henna and Indigo Loosens Curls

Treating hair with henna and indigo loosens the curls but only slightly. Henna and indigo cannot make your hair straight. 

For more on this popular myth, read Can Henna and Indigo Loosen Your Curl Pattern?

6. Henna and Indigo Strengthens Hair

Henna and indigo strengthen hair strands by tightening cuticles and promoting shinier and healthier hair.

7. Damage-Free Colouring Method

Henna and indigo cannot damage hair. It’s strong enough to color but not so strong that it will adversely affect your hair.

You should have a great coloring session if you follow the directions below.

8. Eliminates Itchy Scalp

Henna can help reduce itchy and dry scalp, but this may depend on the person.

9. Henna and Indigo Reduce Hair Shedding

If your hair is shedding a lot, henna can help control hair fall when used in combination with the methods from The Ultimate Hair Growth Guide.

The Ultimate Hair Growth Guide

10. Henna and Indigo Have Therapeutic Effects

Henna has a relaxing effect on the scalp. After application, wrap your hair tightly with cling film and a scarf and take a nap. You’ll discover what I mean.

Merlion Naturals Organic Henna Leaves Powder

Merlion Naturals Organic Henna Leaves Powder

Henna for Hair

Henna is a plant that contains a red-orange pigment known as lawsone.

When an acidic agent is introduced into crushed henna leaves, it activates the lawsone molecules.

When the lawsone molecules are activated, it penetrates deep into the hair shaft and leaves a deep stain.

3 Myths About Henna for Hair

There are a few myths about henna, which I will disabuse before you dye your hair with henna and indigo:-

1. Henna Can Make Hair Grow Longer

Henna cannot make your hair grow longer or increase the hair growth rate. That is simply not possible.

It will improve the overall health and durability of your hair, which will lead to healthier hair growth, not long hair growth.

2. Henna Can Repair Split Ends

Henna cannot repair split ends. It can help you hold onto them longer than necessary but it cannot repair split ends.

The only thing that can end split ends is a merger between your hair and a good pair of trimming scissors such as Equinox Professional Razor Edge Series.

Related Content: Best Tips for Trimming Natural Hair

3. Henna Can Loosen Curl Pattern Significantly

This is unlikely. Can Henna Loosen & Indigo Loosen Your Curl Pattern covers this myth in greater detail, along with pictures of my experiment to test this theory.

The Henna Guys Indigo Powder

The Henna Guys Indigo Powder

Indigo for Hair

Indigo comes from a plant found in tropical areas. This plant contains the rich blue dye used to dye hair.

Indigo can also be used to dye clothes and is applied over hair after a henna treatment.

This application leaves a lovely blue-black stain with red, orange, and brown undertones on natural hair. 

Henna and indigo make a perfect combination for dyeing hair.

Do not dye your hair with indigo alone unless you want to end up with flaming blue hair like Marge Simpson.

Marge Simpson Blue Hair

While indigo alone on black hair won’t turn it as blue as Marge’s, it won’t have the same rich, lush results as when combined with henna and will leave your hair a dull green hue.

Henna and Indigo Recipe for Dyeing Grey Hair

The recipe below is for dyeing grey hair and giving black hair a rich blue-black hue. You will need the following ingredients:-

Ingredients

  • 1 – 2 packets of organic henna like The Henna Guys Henna Powder. You may need more if you have long hair. You can freeze unused henna paste for later.
  • Bottled lemon juice. You may need up to 2 bottles of lemon juice.
  • Roll of Cling film
  • Gloves to protect your hands from staining
  • If you want a cooler undertone to the dye, consider adding 2 tablespoons of amla powder to the henna mix. 
  • 1 – 2 packets of indigo powder like The Henna Guys Indigo Powder. You may need more if you have longer hair. You cannot freeze unused indigo paste so mix sparingly.
  • 1 teaspoon of CMC powder per 100 gms of indigo powder. CMC powder makes the indigo mix creamier, so it spreads easily and evenly through your hair.
Henna mix for dyeing natural hair
HENNA MIX READY TO APPLY ON HAIR
henna application on natural hair
HENNA APPLICATION ON NATURAL HAIR

Henna and Indigo Directions for Dyeing Grey Hair

  1. Mix the henna with enough lemon juice to form a smooth paste with the same consistency as chocolate mousse. If you plan to add amla powder, do not use lemon juice for this step. Lukewarm water is best.
  2. Cover with cling film and set aside for at least 24 hours before you plan to dye your hair. The longer you keep it aside, the more dye is released from the paste.
  3. When you’re ready to dye your hair, mix in enough lemon juice (water only if you’re using amla powder) with the paste to form a smooth runny consistency but not too runny.
  4. Apply some vaseline on and around your ears so the henna doesn’t stain.
  5. Slip on the disposable gloves then apply the henna mix to your hair and scalp generously. Don’t worry about applying too much. Saturate your hair with the henna mix.
  6. Wrap cling film around your head and leave it on for up to 8 hours. You can apply at night and leave it overnight.
  7. Rinse out with a cheapie conditioner like Garnier Fructis Pure Clean Conditioner, Alberto VO5 Moisture Milks Moisturizing Conditioner, or Suave Naturals Conditioner and water.
  8. When your hair is free of henna, pin up and mix your indigo paste.
  9. Mix 1 – 2 packets of indigo powder, 1 teaspoon of salt, and 1 packet of CMC powder with enough water to make a creamy consistency.
  10. Apply to hair the same way you applied the henna paste.
  11. Wrap cling film around your head and leave in for an hour minimum but you can leave it in for several hours more if you have the time.
  12. Rinse out with lukewarm water until your hair is clean.
  13. Follow with a deep conditioning session and style as usual. The blue-black color will get richer over the next few days.
indigo mix after
INDIGO MIX FOR NATURAL HAIR
indigo before and after
INDIGO APPLICATION ON NATURAL HAIR

Henna and Indigo Recipe for Brown Highlights

The recipe below will give brown, reddish highlights. You will need the same ingredients mentioned above.

Henna and Indigo Directions for Brown and Reddish Highlights

  • Mix the henna with enough lemon juice to form a smooth paste with the same consistency as chocolate mousse.
  • Set aside for at least 24 hours prior to dyeing your hair. (Water only if you’re using amla powder).
  • When you’re ready to use the paste, mix in enough lemon juice with the paste to form a smooth runny consistency but not too runny. Set aside.
  • Mix your indigo powder and CMC powder separately with enough water for a runny consistency then mix in with the henna paste and apply to your hair immediately.
  • Leave in for up to 8 hours. Rinse out with water and a cheapie conditioner afterward then follow up with a good deep conditioning session.
  • The ratio of the henna and indigo mix can change based on how many highlights you want in your hair. The recipe above is for equal amounts of henna paste and indigo powder but you can use less henna and more indigo or more henna and less indigo.

Henna on Natural Hair: Before and After

Below are some pictures of my results with henna over the years.

Colouring natural hair with henna and indigo is a great way to enhance and promote healthy curls.

It also allows you to experiment with hair color.

My hair is shorter in the second picture, which was one of my first experiences with henna and indigo.

indigo before and after natural hair
henna before and after

Always do a strand test before henna and indigo application even if you have done it a hundred times before.

You never know if you developed some sort of allergy since the last time you used it.

Best Henna Brands for Dyeing Natural Hair

Best Indigo Brands for Dyeing Natural Hair

If you have any questions about using henna and indigo for coloring natural hair, let me know in the comments section.

Marge Simpson image credit

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19 thoughts on “How to Color Natural Hair with Henna and Indigo – A Comprehensive Guide”

  1. I’ve been using henna alone, sometimes I may add lemon juice and I love the orange reddish color I get. Is there an additional benefit for me to use the indigo along with the henna other than achieving to the blue black color?

    Reply

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